Getting "Outside the Wire" in Kosovo

One of the distinct differences between my last deployment and now is the frequency I've gotten off base, as well as the variety of things I've been able to do. This is due in part, to both increased stability of the region and fledgling economic growth. I have also gotten more creative in my old age :) Deployed soldiers refer to leaving the patrolled base as "getting outside the wire". You thought you were done with army vernacular, huh? NOT!

Roughly once a week, I take several soldiers to one of two local private MR clinics for studies. There is one in Pristina, the capital of Kosovo as well as another just over the border in Skopje, Macedonia. For the first several weeks, I was also doing flouroscopic guided epidural steroid injections for back pain. Durng one injection, a gave a little too much epidural anesthetic agent to one of our ER physician assistants and basically put his pelvis and legs to sleep for several hours.... poor guy. He's doing fine now, and his sciatica is much better! The staff was very accommodating at the clinics and the equipment was excellent. On the first day I walked into Euromed Klinika (the private center in Pristina) Dr. Gazmend Hasbahta was standing there. We both looked at each other in shock, not expecting to see each other. I had met Gazmend in 2004 at the University Hospital in Pristina when he was still on faculty there. Even the Kosavars go into private practice! It was great to catch up with him, and work together as colleagues over this time period.

Euromed Klinika in Pristina, Kosovo

Dr. Gazmend Hasbahta

LTC Jeff Sabino just after his injection Lunch at Cafe Resa in Pristina after leaving Euromed -

LTC Sabino could not feel his butt or legs when this picture was taken

A few words about driving in Kosovo.... sweet Jesus, it's scary. Let me see if I can paint a picture. First, the roads are quite narrow and have no shoulders. Second, there are posted speed limits and the roads are ostensibly patrolled, but in reality it's quite Darwinian and survival of the fittest dominates. The drivers pass on the right and the left (despite no shoulders) and seem to have little or no regard for their life. You have to be aggressive, or they'll eat you alive. A motorized Kosovar respects only the accelerator, not the brake pads. This brand of insanity is eclipsed only by the pedestrians who appear to have even less concern for life and limb, stepping out into traffic whenever the mood hits them. It's like a real-life game of Frogger. On top of that, you must beware of the donkey drawn carriages and so called "Kosovo Harleys" which are actually 10-12 Hp rototillers hitched to homemade wagons. The "driver" sits in the wagon and holds onto the long metal handles of the rototiller, adjusting the throttle from his/her perch. It's quite a sight and I'll do my best to get a picture for you. Problem is, I've been doing most of the driving myself as the enlisted folk are not comfortable with standard transmissions. Tough to drive in these conditions and snap pictures...

Drive Happy... Kosovo Highway, coming up on a donkey-cart

Passing a happy Albanian local on his donkey-cart

Kosavar Driving School... cracks me up every time

The Ben-af - Kosovo's equivalent of Target

At the request of our Commander, I was asked to give a lecture at the German camp in Prizren. It's about 90 minutes away through a windy mountain pass in southwest Kosovo. We absolutely loved the visit, and they seemed to enjoy my lecture on Imaging of Intracranial and Cervical Spine Trauma. I guess stereotypes are everywhere though... the Germans commented that they presumed I was Italian by how much I used my hands to talk during the lecture. Those crazy Germans... They provided a great meal for us though, and we got back safely in the snow.

Driving to the German camp in Prizren

German tanks affectionately named Nicole and Denise

Outside the German Field Hospital

Just before my lecture at Prizren

At dinner with our German counterparts

The following weekend, about 30 of us boarded a bus for Camp Casablanca. That's the headquarters for the Swiss and Austrian contingent in Kosovo. They were having a Christmas event in the evening and we went to partake in the festivities. It's very convenient for Americans, as most educated Europeans speak English. The Swiss and Austrians were great, and showed us quite a good time. We actually roasted chestnuts over an open fire. I bought an authentic Swiss army knife and was glad to get out for the evening.

Camp Casablanca

Upstairs in the coffee bar at the Swiss Chalet

Outside at the Christmas Fair

Site of the "roasting chestnuts"

German contribution: Electrifyed Christmas KFOR truck The cab of the Christmas KFOR truck

The magnet in Pristina was being serviced for a period of time, so I recently drove several soldiers to Skopje for their studies. We went to a private clinic known as Neuromedica and were given the red carpet treatment. The neuroradiologist Dr. Netkov Senco was great, and we enjoyed trading stories and comparing cases. Who knows, maybe we'll run into each other at the RSNA someday. We stopped at the American embassy on the way back (McDonald's) for a little "taste of home".

Neuromedica - Skopje, Macedonia

The MR/CT tech at Neuromedica

Dr. Netcov Senco 1SG Breight enjoying a Big Tasty

I almost forgot, my former roomate Chris Layne (the bastard got to go home... I hate him) was able to snap a picture of the elusive Camp Bondsteel sasquatch rabbit one night. I had to adjust the image somewhat due to the dark but you can clearly see his devious, beady and subversive eyes. I'm still trying to catch him during the day, but I'm sort of nervous.

The Beast stalks his prey

For those of you who have just enjoyed Hanukkah, I say shalom! For all you Gentiles, I wish you and your family a Merry Christmas and peaceful, prosperous New Year.

Muller out.